BarOcho...

Every weekend is its own adventure. Actually, one of my life mottos is “Life is an Adventure!” Friday night I met up with Holly at a dance in the plaza. As you can see, mostly older couples were dancing. (By the way, there was a large head at the bottom of this picture which I successfully removed! Thank you Photoshop and Computer Science 101!) Holly met a young guy from Leon who works in Gto, and the three of us went to the Italian Coffee Co for some beverage. (I had some wonderful fruity tea with tiny apple bits and dried cranberries in it) Later we all met up at the standard Teatro Juarez. Kate brought her friend Rafael, and he brought his friend Yahir. First we went to Bar Ocho (literally, Bar 8, but really a pun on “baracho,” which means drunk.) We had a good time there. Being only 10 or 11, it was still a mild atmosphere. Rafael lived in Victoria and Vancouver for a while, so he knows some English, but only used it when I didn’t know a particular word. We are frequently asked about our preconceived ideas about Mexicans. We discussed many different attitudes, and discussed a little about “machismo.” Rafael said it still exists some, but not much anymore. I started to question that by the end of the night, though.

Later we ventured to Capitolio Light for some karaoke, where many other friends from our group were. There were many friends of friends, and some of them surprisingly older…maybe even upper 30s. Many of the Mexicanos were making roses out of their napkins, something Rafael said all Mexican men should now how to do. He was really interested in getting “relationship advice” from me. It seems to me that many of the men here can be a little pushy. I assured him of my own relationship with “mi novio” and told him to be very careful and patient with any of the other girls. Most of the men were excessively complimentary about everything, and many bought single roses for us girls. Rafael has been in a band for 15 years and sang really well. My favorite was “El Aventurero,” or “The Adventurer,” I suppose. All the gringos really sang out when “Hotel California” played. Approaching 2, one of the older men, started making me really uncomfortable, so I hurried out. Everyone I was with left too, which I felt kind of bad about because I think they were going to stay later, but I was nice not to have to take a taxi or walk alone. Rafael and Yahir walked Holly and me back home, and begged us to go out with them on Wednesday. I forgot that we have our movie class night that night, but I gave him no promises…

Top L to R: Caitlin, me, David, Middle: Holly, Yahir, Rafael, Front: Sarita (she lives with Gorda-which actually means "chubby." Mexicans call people by the appearance all the time, whether it be Flaco, "skinny," one of my host brothers, or Guerra--in Mexico, "blond"-- or even Pelon, "baldy." It's actually a kind of endearment.) Anyway, Gorda hosted my Lindsey from Wofford last semester, so according to Lindsey's instruction, I stopped by her Relojeria/Joyeria (watch/jewelry store) to introduce myself. As Lindsey predicted she was extatic to meet me, full of hugs and kisses and even an invitation to dinner sometime! Almost everywhere I go now, as Karen, the program director predicted, I see someone I know or meet a friend of a friend; this time I saw three people in the centro that I knew.

Los Embajadores

Upper right: I don't know how to improve this format, but these are pictures that I took of my colony or neighborhood, called "Los Embajadores." Apparently one of the presidents (can't remember who...but I'll ask) invited several embassadors from different countries and each of their wives were given trees to plant here. (I think I understood correctly...) The white paint is to protect from bugs, mostly ants. The hotel I stayed in is to the left of those trees, and my home now rests on the hill to the right.
Right: The gate behind the table of sunflowers is a flower shop were I bought my host family a bouquet for Dia de San Valentin. It a quaint little place, and it was an adventure for me to go out by myself, since it was earlier in the semester.
Above: The cross on the hill is another view from Embajadores. Actually, many of the surrounding hills have similar crosses.

Movie Night

<-- From my patio, Rocio my Composition and Grammar teacher, me, Holly, and Caitlin, and the ghost of Gto around us...I mean, Hans' smoke. (He took the pic.)

My host father, being a theatre professor and enthusiast in general, hosts optional classes (once a week for each of the two groups in the program) here to watch and discuss (mostly Mexican) movies. My group first met on Thursday to watch Las Ruinas que Ves, or The Ruins that you See, filmed and set here in Guanajuato. Because we’ve had enough time to familiarize ourselves with some of the mutual understandings of the city, it was amusing to understand many of this comedy’s colloquial humor. We recognized many of the streets and buildings appreciated the close-knit conviviality of the characters that represented some of our own experience. The name “Guanajuato” was not used in the movie, but instead the name “Cuevano,” from the word “cueva” or “cave” because of Guanajuato’s strong history as a mining town with many caves. The almost full attendance excited both me and Señior Palacios.

After the movie and discussion in Señor Luis’s (or Palacios) cozy office with his new plasma TV screen, I showed a few of my friends my panoramic vista from my patio and my spacious living area of the third floor. We all marveled together at the “nice set-up.” When my friends had left, I came down to the office to chat with Senor before secluding myself to write two essays due the next day. Well, being the garrulous professor he is, of course we got into a long conversation about Jorge Ibargüengotia, author the book that supported our movie. Señor generously gave me a book which contained an essay he wrote concerning this author and movie. Our discussion digressed onto other writers, producers, etc, and somehow we landed on a discussion about Mozart. Señor then talked me into watching “just a few minutes” of Amadeus, a movie based on his death, while he ran to the bank.

Well, when Señor returned he had with him a bowl of “fresh” potato chips (actually made in the market 5 minutes before, he told me) and a cold Modelo Negro. How could I say no? So then we proceeded to watch the movie, periodically commenting, and enjoying this unique (at least for me!) setting. What exceptional experience that was for me! Also, I wore my glasses that day and Señor complemented me on them (probably because I looked a little more intelligent than I usually come across with my limited Spanish). At the end of the night (maybe it was the 2 Modelos), he said I looked like Nicole Kidman…never gotten that one before! When my host mother came home from her bi-weekly psychology workshop, she insisted on making me a sandwich or actually “torta”—made on special bread, to finish up this exciting night.

(I think I look nothing like Nicole Kidman...but thanks anyway!) -->

Because I was too exhausted to think straight I decided to finish my homework in the morning. When my alarm sounded I promptly completed one assignment, took a shower, but then realized I only had 5 minutes to get to school with a walk that takes me 15! I raced to school only to find the door locked! A friend from CIEE (my program) approached after inquiring the reason to my frenzy explained I was an hour early! Whew! (My excuse is that I hadn’t, at this time, figured out how to change the time on my watch-which was 1 hour, 7 minutes off.) In the end, everything turned out fine; I finished my work and got to class with plenty of time!

Lunch

Being a professor, my host father is naturally didactic in all our conversations. Since I am here to learn, he seems to me a blessing! Following are some of the “lunch tutorials” he has presented.

Tequila:

Tequila comes from the cacti named “agave” and “maguey,” one being bluer and one greener in color, but I can’t remember which is which. The laborers grind up the heart of the cacti and after time create the tequila. Tequila is often served with the “gusano” (worm), and if you eat, you should have good luck. The night Sr. Luis drove Holly and me to Los Pozuelos, a section of town, where the Mega (like a really nice Super-Target) was built last year. He took me to show me different types of Tequila. The best, apparently, is the Don Julio. Here they sell it for about $30, but in the US, he said it can get up to $200 or more.

Another time we discussed the economic situation in Guanajuato. Apparently, because there is no major industry here (though originally known for a mining, it is now a marginal industry), there are no extreme social classes, unlike the rest of Mexico, where the officers and laborers of large factories are greatly separated in lifestyle. I have seen a few people begging on the streets, but apparently, they come down from rural places on the surrounding mountains. This lack of large industry leading to a greater middle class is an interesting concept, which made me wonder if there might be ways to implement some of the characteristics of Guanajuato to other more socially stratified cities. Although some stratification is inevitable, maybe this is an economic phenomenon worth considering more…

Last night we discussed holidays, especially in relationship to today, being “Miercoles de Ceniza” (Ash Wednesday.) (Many people have the ashen crosses on their foreheads today, probably about 1/3 people on the street.) I have many vacation days this semester due to holidays such as Benito Juárez’s birthday March 19, Día de las Flores March 30, Semana Santa (Holy Week, which is actually two weeks) April 2-13, Día del Trabajador (Worker’s Day or Labor Day) May 1-2, Día de la Madre May 10, and Día del Maestro (Teacher’s Day). Other holidays, for which I don’t get out of school, include the first week in March or Family Week, of course Cinco de Mayo, and others.

The Día de las Flores is always a Thursday/Friday affair and is specific to Guanajuato. According to my host parents, on Thursday, many vendors sell special items for the more religious families to make alters to “la Virgen de Guadelupe,” a.k.a. the Virgin Mary. On the alters, under her image, people place drinks and ice-cream to represent her tears and pain. A big altar is constructed in the center of town, where people basically party all night. The next day, Friday, boys and girls form two circles, the girls’ circle surrounding the boys circle. Then, according to old tradition, the boys, each with his own flower, take turns giving their flower to the girl they think the most beautiful. At the end the girl with the most flowers is crowned the most beautiful girl in town, hence the name, Day of the Flowers. (Lucky for her, but that probably leaves quite a few disheartened chicas!)

Amenities

My sink and shower. The
windows are of the same one;
just imagine the pictures
together. Pretty big bathroom!
And yes, I have warm
water, but the morning are still pretty cold (40s), and there is no heater in the house. But it will be plenty warm soon as spring approaches; it already reaches 70s during the day, and it's still winter!

La Universidad de Guanajuato

Ashley, me, Holly, and David (from Michigan, Ga, Portland, and, I think, Illinois? respectively) in front of the University of Guanajuato. This is the faculty building, clearly visible from my patio. My classes are in a different building. The university is fairly spread out, with some departments in other cities. Two of my professors are from the university (Sr. Ernesto Camarillo-history and Sra. Flor Aguilera-literature,) and the others (Karen-culture and Rocio-grammar, composition) work for CIEE. Only Karen teaches in English-a wonderful relief, I might add. I enjoy all of them, though.

The gringos ventured out again. This time, six of us went to a restaurant and then to a karaoke bar called Capitolio's. Our friend Hans told us all about the different drinks available. Quite a different experience hearing Mexicans sing Coldplay! Caitlin (darker pink jacket) and I sang "Friends in Low Places" like noboby's business. Later we went to a few other bars-one called Cuba Mia, where there was some salsa dancing (which I plan on being a part of before I leave...), and the other was Guanajuato Grill, probably the least impresive. I left early, though, around 12, so maybe it improved later on. Hopefully, we will get to interact with some Mexicans the next time we go out and maybe even get to dance!

Night out!

Girls' night out. Holly and I shared una crepa con fresas y nutella. Not a wonderful shot, but I prefer the candid ones over the posed. One our way back home, we passed the Basilica. The tiny green lights one the front around the entrance actually change colors. Holly's host mother is my host mother's sister. I guess that makes Holly my "hosted cousin." My family here calls me Sarita or Sarah Cuchara ("Sarah spoon," literally, but said for rhyme, not reason.) They call Holly, "Holly Molly" or "Hollywood sin madera," (without wood.) Gotta love the sense of humor.
I just finished my first week of classes, all of which I really enjoyed. Rocio, from Venezuela, teaches Composition and Grammar-2 separate classes-so I have her class once, sometimes twice a day. Karen, the director of the program teaches Culture, the only class in English. My History and Literature classes are taught by natives. So far, History may be my biggest challenge. The professor speaks really fast, but fortunately, he writes a lot on the board. The University offers conversation sessions, which I hope to take advantage of-to improve my Spanish and to make some Mexican friends outside my host family...

My view from the patio. The yellow building with the red dome on the middle left side is the Basilica. The castle-like building behind it is the university. I discover something new when I walk to class (takes about 14 minutes or less) every day.

The patio, and a sliver of my bedroom.

My First Blog!

I'm here in Guanajuato, Gto, in my second week and probably still in the "honey moon" or "luna de miel" stage. I still love this city and my host family more each day. The Palacios, my host family, are so wonderful, hospitable, kind, and patient. My host mother, Margarita (which means "Daisy") cooks fantastic Mexican dishes and leads workshops in psychology. My host father, Sr. Luis, teaches literature and theatre at the Universidad. He owns over 4000 movies, for which he maintains an organized database. He also has a fascinating collection of famous and local artwork along with a vast academic book collection, most of Mexican interest. My oldest host brother, Dante, makes shoes and studies medicine and management. Valeria, sister, studies literature, and raises her two daughters Camilla (6) and Eleonora (4). She lives close by, but spends most of her time out of school at her parents'. Flaco, also Luis, lives here, too, and works as a freelance media specialist. He creates many of the advertising posters around town, commercials, and even a trailer of a movie produced by his friend in New York. He graduated with a degree in communication with a media emphasis. Although they obviously stay quite busy, they daily make time for a leisure main meal, usually with at least 2 courses, around 3. During this time I learn so much from their plethora of knowledge; with this family, I know I will never be bored! I have a huge room, bathroom, porch to myself with an INCREDIBLE view. I live in one of the bigger homes, and believe it or not, we have wireless (or "inalamabrico!") Also, my host father wants to put a TV with a DVD system in my room. I told him it wasn't necessary, but he insisted it would keep me company and aid my Spanish comprehension.

Guanajuato is very historic, colorful (e.g. red, orange yellow, green, blue, brown, etc. of all shades), and "tranquilo," as the natives say. The city rests in a cone-shaped valley and formally thrived as a mining town. With time, Guanajuato grew over mines and the river, which still flows underneath. Now that Guanajuato has reached the faces of the surrounding mountains, it is a city of three levels-the underground tunnels (there are many), the city, and the mountain sides.

Upon arrival, I realized I am the only southerner (I don't count the Texans) in the program (CIEE), so I even experienced some "culture shift" before moving into the home! Being in a place with so little unfamiliarity makes for a some insecurity and nostalgia, but each day is better. My head usually feels foggy in communication; language barrier is such a real thing. I probably understand 68% of what is said to directly me and about 12% when natives speak to each other (because they speak so much faster and slightly slurred.) By 9 every night I am exhausted from all the concentration, but it hasn't slowed my interest and determination yet! I am continuing to read through John. It takes me at least 3 days or more to get through 1 chapter, but has been so relevant in my own learning and as I pray for my host family, who are such wonderful hosts.